10 min
Lab-grown diamonds and mined diamonds have more in common than we might imagine. From a chemical, optical and gemological perspective, both types of diamond are essentially the same. The differences become clear when we look at how they are formed and where they come from. In this article, we explore the main differences between lab-grown and mined diamonds, as well as the role consumer perception plays.
What does science say about mined and lab-grown diamonds?
In 2018, the Federal Trade Commission (FTC), the US government agency that oversees trade and protects consumers, removed the word natural from its definition of a diamond. According to the FTC, “a diamond is a mineral consisting essentially of pure carbon crystallized in the isometric system”. However, in the previous definition, which dated back to 1956, when only mined diamonds were available, the word mineral was preceded by the adjective natural. The term used was natural mineral.
A diamond is a single crystal of carbon, regardless of its origin: a mine or a laboratory. If we were to continue using the concept of natural, a diamond created through advanced technology would be just as natural as a mined diamond, at least in terms of its composition.
In the section Definition and Misuse of the Word Diamond of its Guides for the Jewelry, Precious Metals, and Pewter Industries, the FTC states that:
- A diamond is a mineral, a single crystal of carbon, regardless of how it was formed. Today, lab-grown diamonds can be created with the same optical, physical and chemical properties as mined diamonds.
- When “a marketer uses ‘synthetic’ to imply that a competitor’s lab-grown diamond is not an actual diamond”, this is considered deceptive.
Diamond formation process
The most obvious difference between lab-grown and mined diamonds lies in how they are formed.
Natural formation within the Earth
Most mined diamonds formed deep beneath the Earth’s surface, in the Earth’s mantle. Billions of years of heat and pressure caused carbon to crystallize into diamonds, which were later brought closer to the surface by volcanic eruptions.
Creating diamonds with advanced technology
Lab-grown diamonds, as the name suggests, are created in specialized facilities equipped with advanced technology.
The two main technologies used to create lab-grown diamonds are:
- Chemical Vapor Deposition (CVD). The process starts with a diamond seed, a thin section of a pre-existing lab-grown diamond that already has the crystal structure needed for the new diamond to grow. Inside a vacuum chamber, carbon-rich gases such as methane are exposed to high temperatures. The carbon is deposited onto the seed, where it forms layer by layer. This is where the term “lab-grown diamond” comes from. Once the diamond has formed, it is ready to be cut and polished, just like a diamond extracted from a mine. In fact, both consist of crystallized carbon and are essentially identical from a chemical perspective.
- High Pressure High Temperature (HPHT). This method uses a press to subject a carbon material, such as graphite, to high pressures and temperatures that replicate the natural conditions in which diamonds form within the Earth. This process transforms the carbon into diamond. Although HPHT is an older method, it is still used to create high-quality diamonds in laboratories.
The first lab-grown diamonds were produced in the 1950s, but it took decades of technological development to achieve diamonds of a quality comparable to those formed within the Earth.
Price of lab-grown and mined diamonds
Price is one of the differences between lab-grown and mined diamonds. Diamonds created in a laboratory tend to be more affordable.
What factors influence production and commercialization costs and explain these price differences?
Diamond rarity and exclusivity
One of the main reasons why mined diamonds are so expensive is their rarity. Each mined diamond is unique, with its own characteristics shaped by its natural formation, which contributes to its exclusivity and price.
However, if the carbon used to create lab-grown diamonds comes from exclusive sources or sources with a high perceived value, such as the grass from an iconic sports stadium, it can add value to these diamonds. This can influence their price, particularly if consumers value the exclusive and symbolic origin of the carbon.
In the diamond industry, a gemstone’s provenance and the story behind it often influence its value. If a lab-grown diamond can be traced back to a unique and recognizable source, this provenance can become a differentiating factor.
Costs
There are significant differences in costs between the two types of diamond. Diamond mines are complex operations with substantial cost structures. They require significant investment in machinery and technology, as well as high operating costs due to energy consumption and the need for skilled labor.
The complexity of these operations, together with the associated risks, contributes to the high production costs of mined diamonds.
By contrast, technological advances have made the creation of lab-grown diamonds more efficient. Controlled production in laboratory environments reduces operating costs and eliminates the uncertainty associated with diamond mining.
Diamond value
The perceived value of a diamond is the value the market assigns to it. No gemstone, regardless of its rarity, quality or exclusivity, has an inherent value. Instead, its value depends on how consumers perceive and assess it.
Lab-grown diamonds, even when they are of similar quality, may be perceived as less valuable by consumers who appreciate the Earth-grown origin and unique characteristics of mined diamonds. On the other hand, some consumers place greater importance on environmental sustainability and the ethical dimension of lab-grown diamonds, and so may assign greater value to them.
As we have already seen, the perceived value of a lab-grown diamond can also increase when it is created from carbon with a unique origin and used to design exclusive collections.
Diamond durability
In terms of durability, lab-grown and mined diamonds are equally durable. A diamond’s durability is closely related to its hardness, and both types share the same chemical composition and crystal structure. Both consist primarily of carbon atoms arranged in a diamond crystal structure.
Both types of diamond rank at the highest level (10) on the Mohs scale of hardness, which measures a mineral’s resistance to scratching. As a result, they are extremely hard and resistant to damage. Compared with other materials, diamonds are known for their exceptional durability and resistance to scratching and wear.
The durability of lab-grown and mined diamonds is therefore virtually the same, as both share the exceptional hardness that characterizes diamonds.
Diamond clarity
In general, lab-grown and mined diamonds can have similar levels of clarity.
Diamond clarity refers to the presence of inclusions (internal imperfections) and external blemishes. Both types of diamond can be graded according to the clarity scales established by gemological organizations such as the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) and the International Gemological Institute (IGI).
With lab-grown diamonds, controlled growth processes can produce diamonds with very high clarity, as scientists can minimize or control the formation of inclusions during the growth process.
In mined diamonds, clarity can vary significantly due to the geological conditions in which they formed. Some Earth-grown diamonds can have exceptionally high clarity, while others may have more visible inclusions.
Diamond color
With lab-grown diamonds, scientists can control and determine the color during the growth process. In the CVD process, for example, technicians can introduce certain elements or controlled impurities into the diamond to create specific colors.
This level of control is one of the advantages of lab-grown diamonds, as it allows manufacturers to produce diamonds in specific colors more predictably and with greater control over the final result. By comparison, mined diamonds acquire their color from impurities and distortions in their crystal structure as they form in nature, and this variation cannot be controlled.
Diamond appearance
When it comes to appearance, lab-grown and mined diamonds look identical to the naked eye. Both types of gemstone share the same optical and visual characteristics that make diamonds so highly valued. These include their brilliance, the play of colors in the light and their ability to reflect light in a way that creates the characteristic sparkle of a diamond.
Modern technology used to create lab-grown diamonds has advanced to the point where it can closely replicate the conditions in which mined diamonds form. This means that, in terms of appearance, lab-grown diamonds can’t be told apart from diamonds formed within the Earth.
Even gemologists can find it difficult to tell a lab-grown diamond from a mined diamond without specialized equipment. This remarkable visual similarity has led to the use of laser inscriptions and other markers to distinguish between the two types and ensure transparency and authenticity in the diamond market.
Ethical and sustainability considerations
One of the most important considerations when comparing lab-grown and mined diamonds is the ethical and environmental impact of the diamond industry.
Environmental impact
Diamonds from traditional mines often have a significant environmental impact. Mining can lead to soil degradation, deforestation, water pollution and disruption to local ecosystems. In addition, the energy used to extract and transport diamonds contributes to greenhouse gas emissions.
By comparison, lab-grown diamonds can have a lower environmental impact. Although their production also requires energy, their carbon footprint depends, among other factors, on the energy source used. Some lab-grown diamond producers are also working towards more sustainable practices, with renewable energy sources and measures to reduce their environmental impact.
Conflicts and human rights
The diamond industry has faced ethical challenges related to blood diamonds, also known as conflict diamonds, which have been used to finance armed conflicts and human rights violations in certain regions. Although regulations such as the Kimberley Process have been introduced to address this issue, ensuring full traceability throughout the diamond supply chain can be difficult.
Because lab-grown diamonds do not rely on mining, they are not linked to conflicts associated with certain mines. Their traceability can also be easier to manage, giving consumers greater confidence that their diamonds are not linked to armed conflicts or human rights violations.
Labor and working conditions
Diamond mining often involves difficult working conditions and, in some cases, labor exploitation. Workers may face health and safety risks, long working hours and low wages.
Certifications and transparency
Growing demand for ethical diamonds has led to greater transparency and more certifications across the industry. Some mined diamonds now come with certifications that provide information about certain aspects of their ethical and sustainable origin.
For lab-grown diamonds, traceability and transparency can be easier to achieve. Some manufacturers provide specific information about their production process and the energy sources they use.
Lab-grown vs. mined diamonds: the story behind each gemstone
Lab-grown and mined diamonds have both similarities and differences. The choice between them depends on individual preferences regarding origin, perceived value, and ethical and environmental considerations. The diamond industry continues to evolve as consumer preferences change, and transparency has become a key factor in purchasing decisions. Ultimately, it is the story behind each gemstone that defines its uniqueness and value.